Timing and Surf February 08 2012, 0 Comments

I have spent over two-thirds of my life as a surfer, and never thought that life would get to busy to make time to get into the water.  The last few years have proven that wrong in a big way.  Looking back it is hard to figure out exactly what changed.  The biggest thing with surfing is the need to be completely flexible in timing so that when the swell, wind, tide and free time all converge it becomes the obvious choice.  It seems that finding that convergence, or making it happen, is harder than it used to be for some reason, even living about two blocks from the beach.  At least there has been a bit of a replacement with the bike.  I get the glide, and the benefit of transportation, and the convenience of the bike being there when I want.  I still miss getting in the water. Today the swell was good, really good, but the wind was howling, and the choice of getting out for a bit at lunch fell back to the bike, not a bad thing at all in the big picture.